How to measure yourself accurately for a bespoke bra

Pattern sketches, a pincushion and cream lace trim on a worktable

Taking your own measurements for a bespoke bra is not difficult, but it is easy to get wrong in ways that affect the fit of the finished piece. This is a walkthrough of the eight measurements Dew Geyser uses, with notes on where most people go wrong and how to avoid it.

Things you'll need before beginning

A soft tape measure is the only tool required. A rigid ruler or a dressmaker's tape that has stretched with age will give inaccurate results. If you are not sure whether your tape measure is accurate, check it against a known length before you begin.

It also helps to measure in front of a full-length mirror, or to have someone assist with the measurements that go across the back. The measurements taken across the back of the body are the ones most often recorded incorrectly when done alone.

Soft tape measure (not stretched)
Full-length mirror or a helper
A well-fitting, non-padded bra to wear during measurement
A notepad to record each figure as you go

The eight measurements

The bust measurement is taken at the fullest point of the chest, with the tape parallel to the floor. Do not pull the tape tight; it should sit against the body without compressing the tissue. The underbust measurement is taken directly below the bust, again parallel to the floor. These two measurements together determine the band size and the cup volume.

The waist and hip measurements are taken at the narrowest point of the torso and at the fullest point of the hips respectively. For briefs, the hip measurement is the most critical. A brief cut to the wrong hip measurement will pull at the sides or gap at the front, and no amount of alteration can fully correct a pattern that was cut too small or too large at this point.

The remaining four measurements cover torso length, shoulder width, and two cup-related measurements that we use to determine the shape of the cup rather than just its volume. These are explained in detail in the measurement guide sent with every enquiry.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is measuring over a padded bra. Padding adds volume that is not part of the body, and a cup cut to that measurement will be too large. Measure in a non-padded bra, or without a bra if that is more comfortable.

The second most common mistake is pulling the tape too tight across the bust. This compresses the tissue and gives a smaller measurement than the body actually occupies. The tape should be snug but not tight: you should be able to slide two fingers underneath it.

The measurement guide sent with every Dew Geyser enquiry covers all eight measurements with diagrams. If any step is unclear after reading it, we are happy to go through it by message.