How lace is made: Calais and Kyoto compared
Two traditions, two very different approaches to the same fabric
When clients ask why Dew Geyser uses lace from two different sources, the honest answer is that no single supplier makes everything well. Calais lace and Kyoto lace are produced by different methods, have different hands, and behave differently against the skin. Understanding the distinction helps when choosing the fabric for a commission.
The Calais tradition
Calais has been producing machine-made bobbin lace since the early nineteenth century, when English lacemakers brought the Leavers loom across the Channel. The Leavers loom is a slow machine by modern standards, capable of producing only a few centimetres of lace per minute, but it produces a fabric with a complexity and softness that faster methods cannot replicate. The threads are interlaced rather than simply woven, which gives the fabric its characteristic drape and its ability to stretch slightly in all directions without distorting the pattern.
The lace Dew Geyser sources from the Calais region is chosen for its pattern scale and its weight. For lingerie, a lace that is too heavy sits stiffly; one that is too light has no presence. The Calais options in the current order book sit in a middle range that works well for both bras and briefs.
The Kyoto approach
The textile supplier in Nishiki, Kyoto, produces a different kind of lace: woven on a Raschel-type machine, with a tighter structure and a slightly firmer hand. It is less stretchy than the Calais option, which makes it better suited to pieces where structure matters more than give, such as the centre panel of a bra cup or the waistband of a high-leg brief.
Kyoto lace also tends to have a more graphic pattern. Where Calais lace often features organic, floral motifs with soft edges, the Kyoto options in the Dew Geyser palette lean toward geometric repeats and cleaner lines. Some clients prefer this; others find it less traditionally feminine. Both are valid choices and the sample card shows them side by side.
Which to choose for your commission
The choice between Calais and Kyoto lace comes down to two things: how you want the piece to feel and how you want it to look. If softness and drape are the priority, Calais is usually the better option. If you want a more structured piece with a graphic pattern, the Kyoto lace is worth considering.
Most clients who order a matched set choose one lace for both pieces. A few choose Calais for the brief and Kyoto for the bra, using the firmer fabric where structure is needed and the softer one where comfort against the skin matters most. This is a perfectly workable approach and one we are happy to discuss during the measurement exchange.
If you would like to see both options before deciding, the lace sample card is the most practical way to compare them in person. The autumn 2026 selection includes both Calais and Kyoto options in the new seasonal colourways.